Retinol has a reputation. Some people swear by it, others tried it once, ended up red and peeling, and put it in the bathroom drawer for good. If your skin has grown drier in perimenopause or menopause, the idea of starting may feel risky.
It does not have to be. This guide explains what retinol is, why people use it, and how to introduce it slowly so your skin has time to adjust.
What retinol and retinoids are
DermNet describes topical retinoids as medications derived from vitamin A, made as creams, lotions, foams or gels. Retinol and retinaldehyde are the forms commonly added to cosmetics, while stronger prescribed retinoids include tretinoin and adapalene. The names sound alike, but the strength and the rules around them differ.
If you want a refresher on how to read an ingredient list, our guide to reading skincare ingredients after 50 is a good companion to this one.
Why people use them
DermNet notes that, used long term, topical tretinoin can reduce freckling, solar lentigines and fine wrinkling, and that topical retinoids can reverse some features of photoageing and photodamage. The American Academy of Dermatology also says that for some people with thinner skin in menopause, a retinoid cream can help, and it advises talking to a dermatologist about options.
That is research on retinoids as a class and on prescription-strength products. It tells us about the ingredient family, not about any particular cosmetic you pick up off a shelf.
A face cream for daily moisture, a targeted eye cream, or both together. Compare the sizes, ingredients and prices before you choose.
Why menopausal skin needs a slower start
Menopausal skin tends to hold less water and to be thinner, according to the AAD, and DermNet lists dryness, redness, peeling and sun sensitivity among the side effects of retinoids. Put those together and the sensible approach is a gradual one.
Retinoids are also a reason to reconsider other irritants. If you already use strong exfoliants, scrubs or several treatments, you may be asking too much of your skin.
A gentle way to start
There is no single schedule, so follow the directions on the product you choose. These habits apply to most retinol products.
- Patch test first, and stop if irritation occurs.
- Start with a small amount on a few evenings a week, not every night.
- Apply to clean, dry skin, then follow with your moisturiser. Some people apply moisturiser first as a buffer, then retinol, then more moisturiser if the skin is very dry.
- Give your skin a few weeks before you add frequency.
- Keep the rest of your routine boring while you adjust.
DermNet notes that creams are the least irritating form of retinoid and that applying one at night is less noticeable, and that sunscreen and moisturiser used together in the day protect against sun sensitivity and dryness.
Add one new thing at a time. If you start retinol the same week as a new cleanser and a new exfoliant, you will not know what to blame if your skin reacts.
What irritation looks like, and what to do
A little dryness or tightness in the first couple of weeks is common when starting a retinoid. Redness that settles, light flaking and a slightly warm feeling after application all point to your skin adjusting. Stinging, burning, swelling or a rash is different, and it means you should stop and let your skin recover.
If you do get irritated, pause the retinol, go back to a gentle cleanser and a plain moisturiser, and wait until your skin feels normal again before trying a slower schedule. Pushing through is not a strategy. DermNet notes that retinoids can make eczema worse because of their drying effect, so anyone with eczema or very reactive skin should speak to a GP or dermatologist before starting.
Sunscreen is not optional
Retinoids can make skin more sensitive to the sun, so sunscreen goes on every morning. The AAD recommends a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, applied to any skin that clothing does not cover, and SunSmart advises covering up from UV whenever the UV index is 3 or more. Our guides to the morning routine and the evening routine show where each step goes.
Retinoids are generally avoided in pregnancy. If you are pregnant, trying to become pregnant or breastfeeding, ask a healthcare professional before using any retinol product. Prescription retinoids such as tretinoin are a doctor's decision. Never start or stop any medicine, including HRT, on the basis of a skincare article.
Where Truff’elle fits
The Eye Cream is our retinol product. It is a 20mL rich cream for the eye contour, A$207, and it also contains acetyl hexapeptide-8, sodium hyaluronate, caffeine, Australian black truffle, shea butter and macadamia oil. Warm a small amount between your fingertips and pat it around the orbital bone from the inner corner outwards, avoiding direct contact with the eyes and without pulling the skin. Introduce it gradually, use sunscreen in the day, and check with your treating professional before combining it if your skin is very reactive or you already use a retinoid.
The Peptide Cream does not contain retinol (it is not in its ingredient list), so it works as the moisturising step around retinol. It contains fragrance from Manuka honey, so patch test it too. The Black Diamond Duo puts one 50mL Peptide Cream and one 20mL Eye Cream together for A$397, a saving compared with buying both separately. For a longer look at the eye area, see our guide to eye care through menopause.
Ingredient research informs how we formulate. It does not establish a result for every person using the finished cream.
When to see a professional
See a GP or dermatologist if your skin stays red, burning or sore after you have scaled back, if you notice a new or changing spot or mole, or if you would like to talk about prescription options. The AAD stresses having changing spots checked before you treat them yourself.
Your next step
Choose one retinol product, patch test it, and use it a couple of evenings a week with moisturiser and morning sunscreen. Keep a few lines in your phone about how your skin feels. If you have questions, write to hello@truffelleaustralia.com.au.