If your skin has started to sting, flush or itch when you put on products you have used for years, you are not imagining it. Sensitivity is one of the most common skin changes in perimenopause and menopause. The good news is that it usually settles once you understand why it is happening and strip your routine back.
Why skin becomes sensitive in menopause
Your skin's outer layer works like bricks and mortar. Skin cells are the bricks, and lipids, mostly ceramides, are the mortar that keeps water in and irritants out.
A 2022 study in Scientific Reports compared skin before and after menopause. After menopause, ceramides were lower and their chains were shorter, which loosens how tightly the barrier is packed. Women on HRT did not show the same change, which points to oestrogen as the reason.
A looser barrier means two things. Water escapes more easily, so skin feels dry and tight. And ingredients that your skin used to keep out can now get in far enough to cause stinging, redness or itch.
Signs your barrier needs help
- Products that never stung before now sting or burn.
- Your face feels tight within minutes of cleansing.
- Patches of redness, flaking or roughness, especially around the nose and cheeks.
- Skin that looks shiny but feels dry.
- Flushing that lingers after a hot flush.
The Peptide Crème to renew, hydrate, strengthen and protect. The Eye Crème for fine lines and tired looking eyes. Or both together in the Black Diamond Duo.
What to pause, and for how long
Until your skin feels comfortable again, usually one to two weeks, stop:
- Retinoids, including retinol and prescription tretinoin, unless your doctor says otherwise.
- Exfoliating acids such as glycolic, salicylic and high strength lactic acid.
- Scrubs, cleansing brushes and peels.
- Alcohol based toners.
- Anything you started in the last few weeks.
Keep only a gentle cream or oil cleanser, a hydrating cream for face and neck, and sunscreen. Our back to basics guide has the full reset routine. Our founder, Sabina, still goes weeks without actives to let her skin recover.
How to patch test properly
A quick dab on your wrist is not enough, because many reactions take days to appear. The American Academy of Dermatology suggests this:
- Choose a small spot where the product will not be washed off, such as the inner elbow.
- Apply the normal amount, twice a day, for 7 to 10 days.
- If you see no redness, itching or swelling, the product is less likely to irritate your face.
- If you react, wash it off and do not use it again.
Introduce only one new product at a time, so you know what caused any reaction.
Bringing products back
Once your skin has been calm for a week or two, add back one active at a time, a couple of nights a week. If you use a retinoid, apply your moisturiser first so the retinoid goes on over a hydrated base. Build up slowly and stop at the first sign of stinging.
A note on fragrance
Fragrance is a common trigger for reactive skin, but not everyone reacts to it. If you know you are sensitive to fragrance, check ingredient lists for "fragrance" or "parfum" and patch test. Our Peptide Crème has a light Manuka honey scent and has been tested on sensitive skin. Every skin is different, so patch test it like anything new.
When to see someone
See your GP or a dermatologist if redness, burning or a rash persists after two weeks of a simple routine, if you have swelling, or if you think you may have rosacea, eczema or another skin condition.
